Chances are you are reading this because you just got your first jumping spider or considering to get one. I have good news for you, it is very easy to care for Phidippus Genus jumping spiders. You just need to follow few simple rules.
The following are some general facts about Phidippus Jumping spiders:
- The biggest species of Jumping spider in North America is Phidippus regius.
- Adult spiders range in size from 6 to 22mm; females are often bigger, although this is not always the case.
- Males will always be black and white with green/blue "fangs."
- Female coloration will vary significantly depending on location, from black and white to brown and vivid oranges, however some locations may have multiple colored females in the same brood.
You should start out by keeping things as basic as possible while setting up Phidippus regius spiderling. While having a huge enclosure with plenty of decorations and bioactive substrate may be alluring, it will be more advantageous in the long term to have a simple enclosure while waiting for the Jumping Spider to grow larger.
1. The basic enclosure will be an upside-down plastic cup (by keeping lid on the bottom of enclosure you will allow yourself to open it when needed without breaking spider web sack). Remember that the spider will likely weave its web sack near the enclosure's highest point. Use a plastic smoothie cup with a domed lid as an excellent alternative; simply cover the lid's topmost hole with mesh. A crucial component of caring for jumping spiders is enclosure.
2. You may accomplish proper cross-ventilation by making tiny holes around the enclosure's perimeter or by chopping holes into the opposing sides of the enclosure and covering them with fine mesh.
3. Add some artificial leaves adhered to the tub's side to decorate the enclosure. Keep it basic so you can easily locate the spider when you need it. Jumping spiders frequently construct their web sacks in the center of open area since they don't need hiding places as much as most arachnids do.
4. A gentle mist on the edge of the cage might provide humidity. Small water drips should remain on the enclosure walls for the spider to sip from. Please ensure that the drops are no bigger than a fourth of the size of your initial leaping spider. Water surface tension can be lethal to spiderlings. If your ventilation is adequate, water drops will linger on the enclosure's side for the remainder of the day until evaporating the next day.
5. One of the finest aspects of owning a jumping spider is feeding it!
Every few days, give a spider some food. If a spider has wrapped itself in a dense web sack, avoid feeding it since it is probably getting ready to moult. It's likely that you'll have to start with fruit flies, but if the spider becomes big enough, transfer to a bigger prey. A good rule of thumb is to provide something bigger if the spider tries to snag a second fly while the first is still in its jaws.
Make sure you transition to larger prey as soon as you can since a spider will eventually cease viewing fruit flies as a food source and will stop trying to eat on them, even if they are staving. The ideal prey size for the Phidippus regius jumping spider is between 3/4 and 1.5 times the size of a spider. Just be mindful of it if you're providing anything substantial.
6. One of the most crucial elements of caring for jumping spiders is proper lighting. They adore the brightness. It is crucial to give your spider lots of light throughout the day. Without the right illumination, spiders will stop eating. As a result, it will spend the most of its time in its sack as it waits for things to get better. I advise installing an LED light on a 12-hour on/off cycle directly over the spider enclosure. However, you may just place an enclosure in a well-lit area of the space.
1. Excessive humidity - Phidippus spiders prefer dry conditions but require access to water
2. The captive was left inside. NEVER leave any live prey inside a spider enclosure (unless you have A LOT of experience with jumping spiders). Although most insects are safe to spiders, there is still a potential that the enclosure's buzzing flies, crickets, and roaches would cause enough stress for the spider to undergo a difficult moult.
3. Placing the cage beside a window or on a heating pad. Avoid overheating the jumping spider since heat mats can not maintain constant temperatures. I keep mine at a modest 78 degrees
4. Observing a spider in the premoult stage. Even though your spider may stay in its web sack for a week or more, please have patience. Do not attempt to prod it to determine its viability.
There is always new and updated information coming out as we learn more about these lively little creatures. We will update this document as more information becomes available.